STARBUCK ISLAND

We approached Starbuck Island from the south, having just visited two neighboring islands in the Southern Line Island archipelago of the Republic of Kiribati. While the neighboring islands had crystal clear water, we could tell that something was different on Starbuck. The ocean had more of a greenish tint, a sign of more nutrients in the water. The coral reefs of Starbuck were similarly green, with a vibrant community of seaweeds interspersed with the corals, and herbivorous fishes enjoying the buffet. I’ll never forget the sheer abundance of parrotfish, surgeonfish, and other algae-eating fishes from Starbuck, and the ubiquitous clouds of fish-poop that comes with such an abundance of herbivores! Upon reflection, I should have known that Starbuck was going to be a different place from its southern neighbors. Islands like Flint and Vostok have lush vegetation on land, while Starbuck is a seeming desert island. Aside from a couple of coconut trees plants during the brief human habitation, the tallest plant isn’t higher than your ankle. Cooler ocean water, it turns out, doesn’t evaporate as much, so there is less rain. And cooler ocean water has more nutrients, and those nutrients fuel underwater growth. Starbuck Island taught me the lesson that land can teach you about what is underwater, if you know what to look for…