After weeks at sea in the Pacific, I have mastered the art of walking at an angle. The easterly winds in this part of the world have been pushing the Sea Dragon north along on a starboard tack, meaning that the wind is coming from the right and causing the boat to roll over to the left. Every step is a fight against gravity. Tasks that would be all too simple on land, such as preparing a meal or even walking from your bunk to the head, become challenging. I’ve learned to time my motions to the rolling of the ship, an especially important consideration when pouring boiling water for tea!

Last night, sitting on the deck of the ship, I smelled fire. Not a fire that would cause the captain of the Hanse Explorer to sound the alarm, but fire from the island off our starboard side. The people of Tabuaeran — which is also known as Fanning Island — were stoking the flames to cook fish that they had caught from the surrounding coral reefs earlier in the day. This was the first time I had smelled smoke during this expedition.